CBR650R Fit Evotech frame sliders - can you remove the fairing on one side only?

[Landy]

Hi, just about to embark on fitting Evotech frame sliders for my CBR650R and due to confined garage space can anybody advise if it possible to remove one side of the fairing and fit the slider then refit fairing it and then move around to the other side?
Also anybody had the frame “spring “ out and make it difficult to align refit the bolts?
A bit nervous about removing the fairing overall!
thanks for any advice,
Landy

 

[Rafe]

I have the Evotech crash protection and I took the RHS off first but then moved onto the LHS while the RHS was still off.

But to answer your question, yes you can. Use the shop manual - start from section 2-3 (FRAME/BODY PANELS/EXHAUST SYSTEM)

Just be super patient when removing the fairing. Once you've done it once it's pretty easy doing it again. The first time is always horrible as you don't want to break anything. There are what I describe as T tabs that hold some panels together. You separate them by sliding the T looking tab upwards and it'll slide it out of the locking tab. DON'T try and prise them apart by pulling as you'll break the tabs holding them together.

I've had the RHS off a few times for the exhaust, then Evotech sliders and then again for the R&G case covers so I'm well versed in doing that side.

Good luck and give me a shout if you're struggling.

 

[Landy]

I have the Evotech crash protection and I took the RHS off first but then moved onto the LHS while the RHS was still off.

But to answer your question, yes you can. Use the shop manual - start from section 2-3 (FRAME/BODY PANELS/EXHAUST SYSTEM)

Just be super patient when removing the fairing. Once you've done it once it's pretty easy doing it again. The first time is always horrible as you don't want to break anything. There are what I describe as T tabs that hold some panels together. You separate them by sliding the T looking tab upwards and it'll slide it out of the locking tab. DON'T try and prise them apart by pulling as you'll break the tabs holding them together.

I've had the RHS off a few times for the exhaust, then Evotech sliders and then again for the R&G case covers so I'm well versed in doing that side.

Good luck and give me a shout if you're struggling.

I have the Evotech crash protection and I took the RHS off first but then moved onto the LHS while the RHS was still off.

But to answer your question, yes you can. Use the shop manual - start from section 2-3 (FRAME/BODY PANELS/EXHAUST SYSTEM)

Just be super patient when removing the fairing. Once you've done it once it's pretty easy doing it again. The first time is always horrible as you don't want to break anything. There are what I describe as T tabs that hold some panels together. You separate them by sliding the T looking tab upwards and it'll slide it out of the locking tab. DON'T try and prise them apart by pulling as you'll break the tabs holding them together.

I've had the RHS off a few times for the exhaust, then Evotech sliders and then again for the R&G case covers so I'm well versed in doing that side.

Good luck and give me a shout if you're struggling.

Thanks that’s great advice.
I am please that I did it ony side at a time as the Fastners and poppers are pretty much mirrored by the other halfas a guide.
i have only done the LHS side so far.
I also had an issue with the front part of the frame springing fractionally making re-inserting the bolt a trial what with lining up the Evotech spacer and horn mount bracket.
I think I got it in without cross threading as could tighten the bolt with too much force until final torquing but it’s a worry!
The amount of crud and crap that accumulates really need to remove the fairing yearly forgood clean!
Cheers Landy

 

[Rafe]

Good stuff, glad I could help.

 

[Landy]

Thanks that’s great advice.
I am please that I did it ony side at a time as the Fastners and poppers are pretty much mirrored by the other halfas a guide.
i have only done the LHS side so far.
I also had an issue with the front part of the frame springing fractionally making re-inserting the bolt a trial what with lining up the Evotech spacer and horn mount bracket.
I think I got it in without cross threading as could tighten the bolt with too much force until final torquing but it’s a worry!
The amount of crud and crap that accumulates really need to remove the fairing yearly forgood clean!
Cheers Landy

Rafe

Thought I’d give a quick rundown on the removal of CBR650R fairing and fitting of Evotech sliders:

• Didn't need to remove the under cowl although got mostly there.
• Removal of the middle cowl on the LHS was the trickiest.
• Even looking at the Honda manual it was not clear that the lower fairing (under cowl) was secured by a hidden bolt behind the middle cowl.
• The RHS fairing was easy to remove and replace (maybe I just got better at doing it!).
• I made a note of all the fasteners and locations to help.
• You are correct that the fairings join with “T” shaped connections, knowing this was a great help understanding how they go back - thanks.
• When removing the frame bolts the front frame LHS support did spring and move and had to lever it back using a piece of wood against the exhaust pipe - I don't think I crossed the threads, but could have been an issue!!
• I purchased longer bolts for the front and back frame fittings so that the full threaded engine mount was used.
• I also copper slip coated the bolt threads and reduced the torque about 25% from what Honda state (12mm/59Nm & 10mm/40Nm).
• As the bolts slightly extend out of the engine mounts I can check by feel that they are still good.
• I will probably re-torque once the grease in the copper slip has “evaporated” leaving only the copper.

Has anybody any thoughts on using copper slip on engine mount bolts? I have done it before with no problems and also seen corrosion to the point where an engine mount bolt was impossible to extract.

Cheers Landy