- May 16, 2017
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CB650F GEARING
- Thread starter ADIOS600
- Start date
- Oct 23, 2017
Did you keep the stock gearing?
- Thread starter
- #4
- May 16, 2017
Stock is 42Teeth I fitted 44Teeth.
- Thread starter
- #5
- May 16, 2017
Its ready to go, so will ride it this week and give you my first impressions. I also have an exhaust road test for you when I can upload the video.
- Thread starter
- #6
- May 16, 2017
Well I will do my best to give you my thoughts on the 44t sprocket, (my opinion only).
(First ride) 110 miles, it appears to be easier to take off from rest with better throttle control. wash harsher generally I put that down to fresh chain tension, also not as much transmission snatch. Appears revier just wants to keep pulling. Cannot remember it pulling to 9oomph with so much ease. Feels sharper. Turns nice with more control low speed.
2/3 of the ride running 5,500 to 6,500 last 1/3 6,500 to 8,500. Old sprocket 12.3 per litre new sprocket 13.2 per litre, I put that down to more miles being covered on the speedo fooling the ecu so I would not read too much into that. Old sprocket 5,500 revs = 75mph new sprocket 5,500 revs 73 ish mph. Two tooth on the rear is your maximum it puts your wheel forward about 9mm, I think you could drop a tooth on the front and it would be ok gearing wise.
POSITIVES. New sprocket, shorter chain top and bottom, better control, handling not affected possibly better, would I go back to the old gearing, def not. It will be better 2 up. PS my opinion only I wanted it to work.
(Second ride) 100 miles, still slightly harsh your normal cb. Better from rest /take off, appears better on u turns. still sharp just wants to rev, using the gears less could be the way I am riding it. Don't appear to have that dead spot in fifth like I used to have. Gives me more confidence to ride the bike, I came form a superlight bike. This sprocket only makes 4.6% difference so all this could be bullshit, but at £24 its a winner for me. If I think of anything else I will let you know.
(First ride) 110 miles, it appears to be easier to take off from rest with better throttle control. wash harsher generally I put that down to fresh chain tension, also not as much transmission snatch. Appears revier just wants to keep pulling. Cannot remember it pulling to 9oomph with so much ease. Feels sharper. Turns nice with more control low speed.
2/3 of the ride running 5,500 to 6,500 last 1/3 6,500 to 8,500. Old sprocket 12.3 per litre new sprocket 13.2 per litre, I put that down to more miles being covered on the speedo fooling the ecu so I would not read too much into that. Old sprocket 5,500 revs = 75mph new sprocket 5,500 revs 73 ish mph. Two tooth on the rear is your maximum it puts your wheel forward about 9mm, I think you could drop a tooth on the front and it would be ok gearing wise.
POSITIVES. New sprocket, shorter chain top and bottom, better control, handling not affected possibly better, would I go back to the old gearing, def not. It will be better 2 up. PS my opinion only I wanted it to work.
(Second ride) 100 miles, still slightly harsh your normal cb. Better from rest /take off, appears better on u turns. still sharp just wants to rev, using the gears less could be the way I am riding it. Don't appear to have that dead spot in fifth like I used to have. Gives me more confidence to ride the bike, I came form a superlight bike. This sprocket only makes 4.6% difference so all this could be bullshit, but at £24 its a winner for me. If I think of anything else I will let you know.
Very interesting to hear. Sound like overall it was peppier/sportier?
Glad to hear about the handling too.
These bikes typically have great balance, so better low speed control is icing on the cake.
Glad to hear about the handling too.
These bikes typically have great balance, so better low speed control is icing on the cake.
Adios600, You out did yourshelf! Thanks for all the info. What chain and sprockets did you use? So you are not doing wheelies all the time?
And there is no mention of top speed,but was there more vibs. at 8500rpm? Were you changing gear more often? If i think of anything
else i will let you know.Ha Ha!
And there is no mention of top speed,but was there more vibs. at 8500rpm? Were you changing gear more often? If i think of anything
else i will let you know.Ha Ha!
- Thread starter
- #9
- May 16, 2017
Just changed rear sprocket for a JT one off eBay. No more vibes than normal. Feels a bit more wheelie than it did.Not done a top speed run yet I will have to talk to Heathrow airport for that.
- May 14, 2018
Great write up and something to consider in the future.
https://www.solomotoparts.com/Supersprox-Stealth-Gold-520-Rear-Sprocket-for-CBR650F-14-17/
What's the difference between 520, 525 and 530 chains?
The numbers indicate a chain's dimensions, tolerances, minimum tensile strength and other specifications, using a system instituted by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee. The JIS standard is very similar to chain standards developed by ISO, ANSI, DIN and others. The first digit (4, 5 or 6) denotes a chain's pitch (the center-to-center distance between chain pins). Originally these numbers specified pitch in eighths of an inch (i.e. a 400-series chain had a pitch of 4/8, or 1/2 inch), but now metric dimensions are used. A 400-series chain has a pitch of 12.7mm. A 500-series chain has a pitch of 15.875mm. A 600-series chain has a pitch of 19.05mm. The second and third digits indicate the chain's width, measured between the inboard surfaces of the inner sideplates. Originally these numbers specified width in eighths of an inch (i.e. a chain ending in '20' had a width of 2/8, or 1/4 inch, a chain ending in '30' had a width of 3/8 inch), but now metric dimensions are used. A chain ending in '20' measures 6.35mm between the plates. If the number ends in '25' or '28', the dimension is 7.94mm. If the number ends in '30' or '32', the width is 9.53mm.
Because wider chains are typically stronger as well, the second and third digits also indicate a chain's strength, relative to other chains with the same pitch. Higher numbers correspond to greater strength, i.e. a 525 chain is stronger than a 520. This additional strength is achieved through increased roller diameter, pin diameter, pin length and plate thickness.
Chain comes in a number of sizes. The more power a bike puts out the bigger the chain. Sometimes the next grade up in strength is just a wider chain. 428 and 428H are the same pitch, but 428H is a bit wider and stronger. 520, 525 and 530 are like that too. Pitch is the distance between two roller centers. Having the same pitch means they will all fit on the thinner sprocket. 520, 525, and 530 will all fit on a 520 sprocket, but a 530 sprocket will only fit a 530 chain. Except in emergencies, you should always match the chain size to the sprocket size.
Some more go info,like using a 520 chain instead of the 525?
https://onthebackwheel.com/2016/12/09/520-chain-and-sprockets-conversion-should-you-do-it/
What's the difference between 520, 525 and 530 chains?
The numbers indicate a chain's dimensions, tolerances, minimum tensile strength and other specifications, using a system instituted by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee. The JIS standard is very similar to chain standards developed by ISO, ANSI, DIN and others. The first digit (4, 5 or 6) denotes a chain's pitch (the center-to-center distance between chain pins). Originally these numbers specified pitch in eighths of an inch (i.e. a 400-series chain had a pitch of 4/8, or 1/2 inch), but now metric dimensions are used. A 400-series chain has a pitch of 12.7mm. A 500-series chain has a pitch of 15.875mm. A 600-series chain has a pitch of 19.05mm. The second and third digits indicate the chain's width, measured between the inboard surfaces of the inner sideplates. Originally these numbers specified width in eighths of an inch (i.e. a chain ending in '20' had a width of 2/8, or 1/4 inch, a chain ending in '30' had a width of 3/8 inch), but now metric dimensions are used. A chain ending in '20' measures 6.35mm between the plates. If the number ends in '25' or '28', the dimension is 7.94mm. If the number ends in '30' or '32', the width is 9.53mm.
Because wider chains are typically stronger as well, the second and third digits also indicate a chain's strength, relative to other chains with the same pitch. Higher numbers correspond to greater strength, i.e. a 525 chain is stronger than a 520. This additional strength is achieved through increased roller diameter, pin diameter, pin length and plate thickness.
Chain comes in a number of sizes. The more power a bike puts out the bigger the chain. Sometimes the next grade up in strength is just a wider chain. 428 and 428H are the same pitch, but 428H is a bit wider and stronger. 520, 525 and 530 are like that too. Pitch is the distance between two roller centers. Having the same pitch means they will all fit on the thinner sprocket. 520, 525, and 530 will all fit on a 520 sprocket, but a 530 sprocket will only fit a 530 chain. Except in emergencies, you should always match the chain size to the sprocket size.
Some more go info,like using a 520 chain instead of the 525?
https://onthebackwheel.com/2016/12/09/520-chain-and-sprockets-conversion-should-you-do-it/
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If you gain horsepower by swapping your chain and sprockets, you setup was far past the point of replacement anyway so it’s not really a “gain” and much as a “restore” of power. The same can be said of the rear tire, people have dyno’ed their bike with a shit rear tire, swapped it and dyno’ed it again with favorable results. That doesn’t mean a new tire will make more power on your bike, it just highlights the inconsistencies that occur in a intertia dyno system and how fresh rubber will grip better than worn rubber.
This is an old wives tale, going on as long as the internet has been around, don’t fall for the hype the above link perpetuates. The other reason people say it increases power is because many times they change ratios at the same time so one equates to another in their head when there are two things going on.
Yes a 520 system is lighter, yes it can last as long as OEM stuff, as long as you keep it all maintained and use like constructed parts. Swap in an aluminum rear sprocket and you’ll be replacing it in 50%-75% of the mileage you would a steel unit. And yes, Honda didn’t put a 525 system on there to limit power, that would be stupid of them, wouldn’t it? They put it on the bike because it’s a compromise of longevity and lightness that works with a 600cc bikes power output.
Yes it will be a louder system unless you use a rubber dampened front sprocket, no it won’t magically free lost power unless it was shot to the point it needed replacement anyway and no, there is no reason to swap your drive system out until it’s worn out and time to do so or you want to play with final drive ratios.
Then if you want to try a blingy 520 system, go right ahead.
This is an old wives tale, going on as long as the internet has been around, don’t fall for the hype the above link perpetuates. The other reason people say it increases power is because many times they change ratios at the same time so one equates to another in their head when there are two things going on.
Yes a 520 system is lighter, yes it can last as long as OEM stuff, as long as you keep it all maintained and use like constructed parts. Swap in an aluminum rear sprocket and you’ll be replacing it in 50%-75% of the mileage you would a steel unit. And yes, Honda didn’t put a 525 system on there to limit power, that would be stupid of them, wouldn’t it? They put it on the bike because it’s a compromise of longevity and lightness that works with a 600cc bikes power output.
Yes it will be a louder system unless you use a rubber dampened front sprocket, no it won’t magically free lost power unless it was shot to the point it needed replacement anyway and no, there is no reason to swap your drive system out until it’s worn out and time to do so or you want to play with final drive ratios.
Then if you want to try a blingy 520 system, go right ahead.
I haven't changed anything yet, just threw it up.Also i never fitted a rear supersprox sprocket before which is half aluminum and the teeth are steel. I kind of
thought the 1.5 hp was bullshit as well.I still have some time to go before the sprockets and chain replacement.I still am not sure whether to change my rear
sprocket to a 44t. But from Adios600 review it sounds very good to do.
thought the 1.5 hp was bullshit as well.I still have some time to go before the sprockets and chain replacement.I still am not sure whether to change my rear
sprocket to a 44t. But from Adios600 review it sounds very good to do.
- Thread starter
- #15
- May 16, 2017
I wanted to fit a supersprox but couldn't find one in Uk Have you got a contact for them RoadHog
Adios600,You haven't been looking very hard for a supersprox dealer.They are all over the place and on ebay!
https://www.supersprox.com/find-a-dealer/
https://www.solomotoparts.com/Supersprox-Stealth-Gold-520-Rear-Sprocket-for-CBR650F-14-17/
https://www.supersprox.com/find-a-dealer/
https://www.solomotoparts.com/Supersprox-Stealth-Gold-520-Rear-Sprocket-for-CBR650F-14-17/
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- Thread starter
- #17
- May 16, 2017
So did you find the 44t alloy and steel sprocket on ebay then.
Rocket Crotch
MotoGP
- Oct 18, 2017
If you're going to replace the rear sprocket, can't go wrong with superlite. They're made from steel, and they're indeed super light...plus they look cool so it may be worth swapping in just for aesthetics. In my opinion, the CB650F has plenty of low to mid range grunt so stock gearing feels fine to me. I've never had an issue with stalling or sluggish starts, even going uphill with a passenger.
You can (and should) pick up a speedo healer. They're about $75 and they plug in between the speed sensor and your speedo unit. This will correct your speed readings as well as odometer, or else you'll be adding miles to the bike that you really didn't travel.
You can (and should) pick up a speedo healer. They're about $75 and they plug in between the speed sensor and your speedo unit. This will correct your speed readings as well as odometer, or else you'll be adding miles to the bike that you really didn't travel.
I will have a look at the superlite sprockets i haven't made up my mind which way to go yet.As i still have time,also i hate to bring in parts
from over seas as some attract a 40% duty .44t rear sprocket my not be the way to go for me as well,but thanks for the info Rocket Crotch.
from over seas as some attract a 40% duty .44t rear sprocket my not be the way to go for me as well,but thanks for the info Rocket Crotch.