CB650F Not starting

[Barnsey]

Hi I’ve seen quite a few threads on this issue but haven’t seen any progress on it.
bought my cb650f in august last year, it’s been fine up until last month.
turn the key everything works including the priming of fuel pump but just get a single click from solenoid, very frustrating when you’re in a hurry. I’ve charged the battery then it started turned it off to then try again annnnnnd nothing. Brought a new battery charged for a couple of hours fitted it, great it works again, was ok for two weeks then began to have the same problem so got another solenoid, fitted that and still nothing but a single click. Checked all fuses and seem to be fine. I’m just wondering if there’s a problem with the power after the solenoid stage?

 

[miweber929]

Hi I’ve seen quite a few threads on this issue but haven’t seen any progress on it.
bought my cb650f in august last year, it’s been fine up until last month.
turn the key everything works including the priming of fuel pump but just get a single click from solenoid, very frustrating when you’re in a hurry. I’ve charged the battery then it started turned it off to then try again annnnnnd nothing. Brought a new battery charged for a couple of hours fitted it, great it works again, was ok for two weeks then began to have the same problem so got another solenoid, fitted that and still nothing but a single click. Checked all fuses and seem to be fine. I’m just wondering if there’s a problem with the power after the solenoid stage?

Sounds like you have a possible charging issue. What’s your standing voltage, starting voltage and charging voltage? The service manual has a very good section on how to check the charging system, start there. Throwing parts at this won’t help do anything but lighten your wallet so let’s find the cause.

So let me ask this: what have you changed on the bike leading up to this issue, even if it doesn’t seem a likely culprit? Do you have a 12V to USB charger on the bike? Where is it hooked up?

Couple more clarity questions: It’s not clear to me based on what you wrote if it simply doesn’t start when it acts up until you charge the battery, or if it takes a couple tries and then it start? I’m trying to figure out why the solenoid was replaced or you thought that was the culprit. How long are your trips, usually? Riding conditions; like city traffic, pleasure cruises, canyon carving, lots of starts and stops, etc.?

 

[Barnsey]

Hi thanks for getting back to me.
don’t know what the charging rates are as didn’t think it was this as was a new and freshly charged battery. Only replaced the battery and solenoid nothing else.
normally only ride to and from work during the week and Rideout on weekends if time allows. When riding to work i take the back streets as it’s quicker but with loads of traffic calming measures in place ie. speed bumps so could’ve shaken something loose. I’ll probably just go home tonight and try it again but my will be on it not starting just a single click.
ps. If charging it’s only on a standard charger set on bike mode and sealed battery so it just charges then switches to maintenance charge.

 

[Goblin]

First and simple check is your battery voltage. In your case you start with a new fully charged battery. Use a multimeter and check the voltage on the battery (don’t power up the bike) than you start the bike an let it idle and check again your voltage, it should be higher now because your alternator is charging your battery if not then you found your culprit. The precise voltage numbers voor this bike I don’t know out of my head but should be around: standing voltage 12,4
Starting voltage 9.6 and charging voltage 14,4 please feel free to correct me on the numbers 😁

 

[Barnsey]

@Goblin
Could only check the standing charge but can’t test the voltage when running as I’ve mention before it won’t turn over, just a single click from the solenoid but thanks for your time and input 😌

 

[Brammers]

A reference source https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-your-battery-is-bad.html

J

 

[Barnsey]

@Brammers
Thanks for posting this but do it now as no light in my shed. This is a new battery, I’ve been riding bikes for years and normally i have no trouble finding faults and fixing them but I’ve even tried using a power pack but still won’t turn over ☹️

 

[Goblin]

@Goblin
Could only check the standing charge but can’t test the voltage when running as I’ve mention before it won’t turn over, just a single click from the solenoid but thanks for your time and input 😌

Oké I thought the bike started with a new fully charge battery and than stopt working again after two weeks. So I thought maybe your alternator is not charging your battery during riding. Hope you find the culprit soon. 👍

 

[baugustine]

To clarify a few points above which went unanswered: a new battery means bupkis if the charging system is not working properly or you have a 100+ mA draw somewhere. Both will kill your new battery. You need to check the voltage while it’s running to ensure you have at least 13.2V DC charging. Also, check for a parasitic loss while the bike is off. Both require a DVOM.

 

[Brammers]

If the pump is priming you have some juice and the kill switch is at least set to "run".

Check connections on starter relay (by red connector under seat), possibly check the main fuse there also as that would stop the starter cranking.

Starter relay could just be a dud also. Still check the battery voltage, but if a charged jump pack won't turn it over then the above pointers may help.

J

 

[Brammers]

Also, check out the wiring diagram in the service manual to familiarise yourself (spoiler: there isn't much cabling in that area).

 

[Barnsey]

@baugustine @Brammers
Thanks guys i will have a fiddle on Saturday as haven’t got time today as work is beckoning.
Ps. Just to clarify where the main fuse is; is it the one on the solenoid or the one on the loom just after the solenoid? Both 30amp TIA

 

[Brammers]

Check both. Honestly I'm going to have to go read the manual to answer that one!

J

 

[Barnsey]

@Brammers
Just check the main fuse is the on the solenoid 😀

 

[Barnsey]

@baugustine @Brammers
Hi guys just to let you know i’ve solved the problem of the no crank and single click from the solenoid. I took the starter motor off and gave the brushes and everything a clean they were sticking and not making contact. Thanks for your input guys, safe riding 😁

 

[Brammers]

Thanks for taking the time to come back with the update.

J

 

[Paulpen]

Did you find a guide on how to remove and clean or would you have any instructions on how to do so ?

I think im in the same boat chasing my faultthat sounds like yours :

All 650's - Won't start (seems to be when cold)

Hi guys and girls. I had an issue when I went out to the bike the morning and it would not start (just a click / thud from the starter motor or under the seat). It had been ridden the last few days and was all fine so not lack of use. I played with the kill switch, side stand, moved it a...

650f.bike

 

[baugustine]

P @Paulpen removal instructions are in the service (workshop) manual, which is posted in the RESOURCES section (link on the header above). Before you start tearing things apart, verify the battery did not give it up.

 

[Paulpen]

@baugustine I had a look through that and it seems to be two bolts and out but fails to show or mention the two big coolant hoses that sit in front of it. I was also a bit confued on what to clean it with etc.

I am adamant the battery is good - 12.8v if left for 24 hours, fuel pump primes and headlamp bright and showing 12.7v while thats happening.

I bypassed the solenoid to rule that along with all of the low voltage side out.

I also managed to get it going this morning by lightly tapping the starter motor so im thinking I have dirt, corrosion or a brush issue currently

 

[baugustine]

@baugustine I had a look through that and it seems to be two bolts and out but fails to show or mention the two big coolant hoses that sit in front of it. I was also a bit confued on what to clean it with etc.

I am adamant the battery is good - 12.8v if left for 24 hours, fuel pump primes and headlamp bright and showing 12.7v while thats happening.

I bypassed the solenoid to rule that along with all of the low voltage side out.

I also managed to get it going this morning by lightly tapping the starter motor so im thinking I have dirt, corrosion or a brush issue currently

Good. If you can give it the ”gentle love tap” with the BFH and it starts then you most likely have a shorted spot in the brushes/commutator.