Once blocked the reeds can't flap which is 99% of the noise.
J
J
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All 650's PAIR VALVE REMOVAL (improved version)
As
@Brammers said, it will rid you of most of the noise. But it can still make noise because you’ve not removed anything so if you want it all to be gone you’ll need blanking plates or rubber caps and to remove the pump and block off the passageways It leaves behind.I have a 2018 CB650F, I plugged the PAIR Hose connected to the airbox with a sawed-off brake caliper slide pin from a car. The slide pin fit into the airbox, and the thicker part goes into the hose, so the hose is completely blocked. I figured if i ever want to revert to stock, it will be easier to remove than a marble.
I did nothing else, the complete pair system is still in place and connected. The "bag of bolts" noise is completely gone. Very quick and effective method of blocking the PAIR.
- Jun 18, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2021
Anyone know the size of the hole in the air box that needs blocking on a 2016 cbr650f? Want to get an appropriate sized plug before I start the job of changing air filter and also plugging the PAIR hole in the air box. Cheers
- Mar 8, 2020
- Riding Since
- 2017
I ended up buying like 4 sizes of these from home Depot and none of them fit perfectly. I can't remember which size I used but I had to shave off some of the rubber to fit perfectly. If you can afford to drop $5 on a few of these sizes one of them will work. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...em_mobile-_-202975137-_-204273762-_-N#overlay
- Apr 15, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2001
Hey guys, I'm finally getting around to doing the PAIR delete in my '18 CB650FA (Thailand model). Everything is going smooth. I have a SmartMoto kit here in front of me. I've spent several hours reading all these threads and checking out info elsewhere, gaining knowledge of the task.
What I'm here to ask then, is what is the actual purpose of the block off plates? I understand one can remove the reeds if they really want to, although no real reason. And the block off plates would serve as a true delete, but what is the difference between block off plates and just capping the ports on the existing reed covers?? The new SmartMoto kit has the recesses and also comes with a resistor installed in a plug, which is a bonus. Xaos636 did something similar in post #82-83. I've removed the pump and the lines, but the two lines attached to the reed covers are not wanting to come loose, and have now about an inch gap between them and it looks like I could place a rod between them and clamp it down. Or do as Xaos did, using a singular piece to connect and therefore close the loop. Or better yet, just place rubber caps directly on top of the reed covers in place of the old air lines??
Once I reached this point, I just began to think, why did I spend over 100 Euros for these two small aluminum plates if they're not really necessary. The pump is gone, the reeds are closed, the resistor is in place, the cat is gone.... I decided to sleep on it before going any further, and see if anyone will chime in to point out something I may be missing.
What I'm here to ask then, is what is the actual purpose of the block off plates? I understand one can remove the reeds if they really want to, although no real reason. And the block off plates would serve as a true delete, but what is the difference between block off plates and just capping the ports on the existing reed covers?? The new SmartMoto kit has the recesses and also comes with a resistor installed in a plug, which is a bonus. Xaos636 did something similar in post #82-83. I've removed the pump and the lines, but the two lines attached to the reed covers are not wanting to come loose, and have now about an inch gap between them and it looks like I could place a rod between them and clamp it down. Or do as Xaos did, using a singular piece to connect and therefore close the loop. Or better yet, just place rubber caps directly on top of the reed covers in place of the old air lines??
Once I reached this point, I just began to think, why did I spend over 100 Euros for these two small aluminum plates if they're not really necessary. The pump is gone, the reeds are closed, the resistor is in place, the cat is gone.... I decided to sleep on it before going any further, and see if anyone will chime in to point out something I may be missing.
- Sep 28, 2019
You’re not missing anything, there are different ways to block off the PAIR valves, the plates you and many other bought, blocking the rubber lines (either the two on top of the existing plates or the one on the air box), placing caps on the existing plates.
Considering you already spent the money for the kit, use it. Unless you don’t feel enough comfortable to do the whole thing and want to try for the “easier” way to block the line on the air box.
- Apr 15, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2001
Thanks Fritz,
I'm confident to do the job, but once I had my own eyes on it, I don't see any benefit to these plates, when some simple rubber caps on the reed covers will do the job perfectly.
A note on the SmartMoto kit:
Without taking off the protective sheath over the resistor, I can't determine if it's the proper spec. Hopefully they got it right.
I'm confident to do the job, but once I had my own eyes on it, I don't see any benefit to these plates, when some simple rubber caps on the reed covers will do the job perfectly.
A note on the SmartMoto kit:
Without taking off the protective sheath over the resistor, I can't determine if it's the proper spec. Hopefully they got it right.
- Sep 28, 2019
yeah, considering there are easier methods, I guess the plates aren’t really providing much greater benefits. Only a “cleaner job” since some parts are removed.
the plug and the resistor I think it’s something new, never heard or seen one before (it definitely didn’t come when I bought the kit and never saw anyone mentioned it before)
It’s good to see they’re providing one now.
Pretty sure (hope so) it's the right one.
- May 21, 2016
The resistor is only required on newer ECMs, so the MIL doesn’t come on. If memory serves me (covered several times in various threads) it’s MY 18 forward, but also there was some variation between Regions.
bottom line, the plates are just more asthetically appealing, but are never seen unless the tank is up and air box removed.
bottom line, the plates are just more asthetically appealing, but are never seen unless the tank is up and air box removed.
- Jun 30, 2019
On a former Honda where I installed a full system exhaust, fuel controller, and other performance mods, I removed the PAIR assembly, covered the electrical connector that got exposed, then used 1/2" rubber caps with clamps to block the nipples at the head and the air box. I haven't done it on my CB650F, but I'm thinking it's the same really. No need to do more unless you don't like the looks of the capped off nipples.
- Apr 15, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2001
Here is where I've landed. I wanted to use a single rod to plug both holes, but didn't have anything suitable. So as you can see I've plugged them individually. Now on the subject of the resistor connector, is my wrap job overzealous? Of course it's meant to protect the resistor, but is there a problem in terms of overheating, a lack of heat dissipation?
I think you’ll be just fine.
- Apr 15, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2001
Alright, she's back together. Went for a rip. All is well. To be honest, there isn't a mega difference. I'm guessing different years and regions has a lot to do with it. For instance, judging from the 2014 Service Manual (because there isn't a newer one, right?), my Thai model is the only region with an EVAP system. Curious to know about newer models, whether they do or not. I left that system alone for now, not sure if there is anything to be gained from removing it.
But the pump noise is gone, obviously, and the reed noise. It's a bit smoother in the alleys around my house, but there is still a bit of a lash if you're abrupt with the throttle.
I used the resistor from the kit and that is all. Glad I did it even if just to eliminate to obtrusive noises. I feather the clutch and rear brake in these situations anyway, so maybe that's why I didn't have as big of a problem with it from the outset.
Thanks to all in this thread and site.
But the pump noise is gone, obviously, and the reed noise. It's a bit smoother in the alleys around my house, but there is still a bit of a lash if you're abrupt with the throttle.
I used the resistor from the kit and that is all. Glad I did it even if just to eliminate to obtrusive noises. I feather the clutch and rear brake in these situations anyway, so maybe that's why I didn't have as big of a problem with it from the outset.
Thanks to all in this thread and site.
Nice thanks for the feedback. With the newer smart moto kit did they provide all the plugs and bits that are required? Did you have to scavenge anything to complete the job?
Also sorry if I missed it but you mentioned earlier you were unsure with using the plates... did you use them in the end?
- Apr 15, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2001
The kit was well appointed. However, the only thing I used from the kit was the electrical connector containing the resistor and the rubber cap for blocking the nipple on the airbox. Therefore, I used two rubber plugs and hose clamps from my parts bin, because I opted to simply plug the hoses coming out of the stock reed covers.
- Dec 13, 2018
Since I installed my new exhaust system last season and recently purchased a Dynojet PCFC, I will be disabling the pair valve. I know there's several ways to go about this, but I was looking at the service manual and it seems I only really need to disconnect the solenoid connector and not plug anything. With no power to the solenoid, the air path is in its normally closed state.
This is the opposite of the pair valve action described in the Honda "Common Service Manual". I have not checked yet as my bike is still in hibernation. Am I wrong? (7-22 Pair Control Solenoid Valve Inspection)
This is the opposite of the pair valve action described in the Honda "Common Service Manual". I have not checked yet as my bike is still in hibernation. Am I wrong? (7-22 Pair Control Solenoid Valve Inspection)
If I remember correctly, with the solenoid disconnected it's always open... So you will always have the rattle.
J
J
- Apr 15, 2021
- Riding Since
- 2001
Skeletor, I assumed the same. Aren't the reeds sprung closed unless pressurized by the solenoid/compressor? Isn't some noise created from the solenoid and subsequently some from the reeds?
I considered simply unplugging the solenoid and capping the airbox and leaving it in place. Ultimately I opted to remove it and cap the nipples.
I considered simply unplugging the solenoid and capping the airbox and leaving it in place. Ultimately I opted to remove it and cap the nipples.
Incorrect assumption. There isn't a compressor.
The exhaust sucks air in, the pair system doesn't push.
The solenoid is effectively just an electrical bung in the feed pipe which the ecm closes above a certain rpm.
Yes the reeds are sprung... To prevent exhaust gasses flowing back up the pair system (which couldn't happen if it was pressurised so they wouldn't be needed).
J
The exhaust sucks air in, the pair system doesn't push.
The solenoid is effectively just an electrical bung in the feed pipe which the ecm closes above a certain rpm.
Yes the reeds are sprung... To prevent exhaust gasses flowing back up the pair system (which couldn't happen if it was pressurised so they wouldn't be needed).
J