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All 650's PAIR VALVE REMOVAL (improved version)

Brammers

2014
CBR650F ABS
Staff
May 30, 2014
Hampshire, England
Riding Since
1993
Did some thinking. Grab a 48r and a 56r 3w 5% resistor. Wire in parallel and you end up with 6w at 25.8r... Which is smack in the middle of what you need.

Even 5% variance is within the range.

J
 

Motojack

2021
CBR650R
May 26, 2019
Can someone just measure it with a multimetre? I'd nearly buy it myself just to post it here :D
 
Last edited:

Brammers

2014
CBR650F ABS
Staff
May 30, 2014
Hampshire, England
Riding Since
1993
If it's a single resistor, it'll be 27R. There isn't another one available that is a fit for the spec of 23 to 27 ohms the ecu is checking.

If it's multiple resistors then combinations are possible.

But yes a multimeter will tell you for sure.

J
 

Sajben650R

2019
CB650R ABS
May 17, 2020
Riding Since
2019
I wanted to give people an easy access link to purchase the PAIR Valve Blanking Kit that requires NO drilling.


Hope this helps.
 

saulius

2019
CB650R
Aug 30, 2022
Riding Since
2019

Brammers

2014
CBR650F ABS
Staff
May 30, 2014
Hampshire, England
Riding Since
1993
Hi, anyone has fitted theese? any improvements? i can actually can hear poppings with my org exaused... would like eliminate that:
I've moved your post to the existing thread. Have a read as your question is answered here.

J
 

miweber929

2014
CBR650F
650 Alumnus
Staff
Feb 13, 2015
Woodbury, MN
Riding Since
1975
i read somewhere that R model from 2019 engine is improved? so that means it wont be exactly same? or i wrong?
There are only very small changes to the original motors from ‘14 all the way through a new ‘22. Minor tweaks to timing, some intake changes and a few other tweaks but the block and major components are all the same.

As M @MotoDonner mentioned above the biggest change is the R specs around a half a liter LESS of oil and has a longer dipstick to measure it. So if you have an F model and buy an R model dipstick, you can run the R oil spec (less weight).
 

Cedar650

2019
CBR650F ABS
Apr 26, 2023
Riding Since
2010
Picked up a 2018 CBR650F a couple of days ago as a commuter and had my first rides to work this week. It's an Australian derestriced and Woolich flash tuned model running a full Yoshi R77 exhaust. First set of traffic lights I coasted in to (bike was still in warm-up mode) I'm getting this horrible bucking from the bike. Felt like severe driveline lash and I really had to ride the clutch to smooth it out. This happened every time I coasted to a stop (coasted as in, throttle closed and in gear with gentle brakes) as the RPM dropped below about 3k. Seemed to lessen a bit once the bike had warmed up and the idle RPM dropped. It was hell nasty and worse than any other bike I've owned before (30+ bikes) and really stifled the overall enjoyment of the ride. Everything else about the bike is great. Love the gearbox, handling, riding position. But this jerkiness would probably have had me sell the bike pretty soon and try something different.

Chain was already adjusted perfectly to spec as I did this as soon as I got the bike so it wasn't driveline lash coming from a loose chain. I had a feeling it might have been something to do with the tune and maybe an overly lean idle or whoever had it tuned asking for extra pops and bangs on decel (as some people do). Anyway, did some research and came across the PAIR threads here and read them all. I was pretty confident that this was exactly my issue. Last night I lifted the tank and blocked the inlet within the air box with a rubber cap as a temporary measure to see if it would solve the problem.

And it did! I can't believe how much of a noticable difference it made on the ride to work this morning. No issues at all coasting to a stop any more, the bike just slows down naturally and smoothly as you'd expect it to all the way to the last couple of metres when you'd natually pull the clutch in anyway. I can still hear the PAIR clicking but it's not accompanied by semi-violent jerking. The on/off transition at low RPM is improved as well making the whole bike far more pleasurable to ride in traffic.

Going to order the plates and rip it out for good. What I'm kind of surprised about though it that it wasn't removed/blocked already since the previous owner had paid a reputable tuner a small fortune to derestrict and tune the bike which already had a full Yoshi R77 exhaust. That and the fact the tuner dremeled the stock restricted intake runners rather than installing the full power ones, and didn't exactly do an overly clean job of it. I might install the proper runners when I get back in there to do the PAIR removal though the bike has been tuned with the trimmed runners already so maybe I'm best to leave it as is.

Anyway, thanks for all the info. The forum solved a problem that would have made me sell the bike. But now I'm fully in love with the thing.
 

miweber929

2014
CBR650F
650 Alumnus
Staff
Feb 13, 2015
Woodbury, MN
Riding Since
1975
Picked up a 2018 CBR650F a couple of days ago as a commuter and had my first rides to work this week. It's an Australian derestriced and Woolich flash tuned model running a full Yoshi R77 exhaust. First set of traffic lights I coasted in to (bike was still in warm-up mode) I'm getting this horrible bucking from the bike. Felt like severe driveline lash and I really had to ride the clutch to smooth it out. This happened every time I coasted to a stop (coasted as in, throttle closed and in gear with gentle brakes) as the RPM dropped below about 3k. Seemed to lessen a bit once the bike had warmed up and the idle RPM dropped. It was hell nasty and worse than any other bike I've owned before (30+ bikes) and really stifled the overall enjoyment of the ride. Everything else about the bike is great. Love the gearbox, handling, riding position. But this jerkiness would probably have had me sell the bike pretty soon and try something different.

Chain was already adjusted perfectly to spec as I did this as soon as I got the bike so it wasn't driveline lash coming from a loose chain. I had a feeling it might have been something to do with the tune and maybe an overly lean idle or whoever had it tuned asking for extra pops and bangs on decel (as some people do). Anyway, did some research and came across the PAIR threads here and read them all. I was pretty confident that this was exactly my issue. Last night I lifted the tank and blocked the inlet within the air box with a rubber cap as a temporary measure to see if it would solve the problem.

And it did! I can't believe how much of a noticable difference it made on the ride to work this morning. No issues at all coasting to a stop any more, the bike just slows down naturally and smoothly as you'd expect it to all the way to the last couple of metres when you'd natually pull the clutch in anyway. I can still hear the PAIR clicking but it's not accompanied by semi-violent jerking. The on/off transition at low RPM is improved as well making the whole bike far more pleasurable to ride in traffic.

Going to order the plates and rip it out for good. What I'm kind of surprised about though it that it wasn't removed/blocked already since the previous owner had paid a reputable tuner a small fortune to derestrict and tune the bike which already had a full Yoshi R77 exhaust. That and the fact the tuner dremeled the stock restricted intake runners rather than installing the full power ones, and didn't exactly do an overly clean job of it. I might install the proper runners when I get back in there to do the PAIR removal though the bike has been tuned with the trimmed runners already so maybe I'm best to leave it as is.

Anyway, thanks for all the info. The forum solved a problem that would have made me sell the bike. But now I'm fully in love with the thing.
Great news!!!

Please take a minute to wander over to the new members section and give us a bit of an introduction. Always love pics!!!!
 

CheccoG12

2014
CB650F ABS
May 10, 2023
Riding Since
2017
Is this rattling noise coming from the pair valve? Can i solve it with stock exhaust???

 

CheccoG12

2014
CB650F ABS
May 10, 2023
Riding Since
2017
I don't understand. Is this a problem for you?! Seems fine to me, absolutely the same as mine. It´s inevitable, internal combustion engines make allot of noises ;-)
Not so normal..
It's the same as presented in

When i pass over 2000/3000rpm this metallic drag (like a bad bearings) disappears.

I'm reading the threads but i don't understand if the pair valve makes a metallic (clicking) noise or like a metallic drag.

Can someone post the sound, if it is possible, before and after pair removal...


Anyway, thank you guys!
 

Arthur45

2017
CB650F ABS
May 2, 2018
Not sure if you can be that precise over the sound. But your budeo sounds pretty much as normal......the par valves do just make the bike sound like a bag of nails at low RPM and idle......after 5 years of owning mine I still hate it and always wonder if something isn't right. You can always blank them.
 

miweber929

2014
CBR650F
650 Alumnus
Staff
Feb 13, 2015
Woodbury, MN
Riding Since
1975
When i pass over 2000/3000rpm this metallic drag (like a bad bearings) disappears.

I'm reading the threads but i don't understand if the pair valve makes a metallic (clicking) noise or like a metallic drag.

Can someone post the sound, if it is possible, before and after pair removal...


Anyway, thank you guys!
it’s a metallic clicking sound, on mine was a distinct clack. If it disappears around 3,000 rpm it’s the pair valves.
 

CheccoG12

2014
CB650F ABS
May 10, 2023
Riding Since
2017
Hello guys.
here i am again. after a few weeks I managed to find the time and the courage to investigate the pair.
I plugged the tube from the air filter box to the pair valve with a marble. The result is incredible...
I finally managed to get rid of that drag noise..
I upload a before and after video hoping it will help someone.
Thank you all.

 

MotoDonner

2021
CB650R ABS
Feb 10, 2021
Riding Since
2016
Hello guys.
here i am again. after a few weeks I managed to find the time and the courage to investigate the pair.
I plugged the tube from the air filter box to the pair valve with a marble. The result is incredible...
I finally managed to get rid of that drag noise..
I upload a before and after video hoping it will help someone.
Thank you all.


Wow that's a massive difference

makes me want to block the tube too
not sure though as I've read different opinions about blocking/disabling the pair valve with a kat installed :/
 
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