All 650's PAIR VALVE REMOVAL (improved version)

[Cláudio Nogueira]

Hello.

I am going to skip on my opinion about the causes that lead most of you to eliminate the PAIR system. I'm sure you don´t want to ear it ;-)
But... why spending money and messing with the covers, putting the resistor on the connector if all you need is to block the tube going to the air box?
All you have is to plug that tube and the hole it leaves on the airbox and PAIR system will not suck any more air, solenoid valve will continue to be controlled by the ECU with no errors, but no air flow, ever.
And like this you can make it work back again. You never know when you want to sell the bike and the new owner, would prefer to put the catalytic converter back on again and reactivate the PAIR... like me ;-)
If anyone decides to put the CAT back on without the PAIR system, there´s the risk the CAT get cloggued.
By now I think you all understood I'm not a fan of messing with the good engineering job others did before.
ECU program is very complex and has behind allot of testing and whenever we decide to mess with it, the impact is sometimes underestimated.
Some replace the stock exhaust to have noise sound (sorry), then to find they have to blank PAIR system, because of... (excessive) noise! 😉
I prefer to have it stock...

 

[Brammers]

A bit off topic @Cláudio Nogueira but I chose to remove all the PAIR stuff for a few reasons:
1) It was not needed and did nothing but add weight
2) I did it back in 2015 before ECU errors were a consideration so it was easy to do
3) I felt it was the "right way" to do it
4) It gets rid of a lot of tubing and obstructions for future maintenance / servicing (which was a blessing when I did the valve clearances)

HTH
J

 

[skeletor]

I pulled the assembly out tonight and tested it.




@Brammers is correct and the service manual above is wrong. The valve is open when the solenoid is not powered and closes when activated.

 

[Mr1275]

Hi All,

I need some advice please.

I have a 2020 CB650R, with an Akrapovic SH6R11-AFT full system ( No Cat )

I have purchased a SmartMoto Pair Valve Blanking kit to removed the dreaded PV's, the kit is the latest type with the machined inner faces and the plug and play resistor block.

Before delving deep into the bike I thought I'd try the blocking off the pipe from the air box with a marble and see what the result was.
The marble is a good tight seal in the air feed pipe and I've fitted it far enough up the pipe to allow me to reattach the pipe back on the airbox and clamp it with the original clip.

The bike fired straight up fine but the noise from the pair valves or solenoid is twice as loud as it was before blocking said pipe !!!
I've removed the marble and reinstated the pipe as standard started the bike and the sound is now back to how it was before blocking the pipe.

Am I missing something here ? should I have disconnected the electrical connection the solenoid as well as blocking the pipe with the marble ?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

TIA.

 

[miweber929]

Hi All,

I need some advice please.

I have a 2020 CB650R, with an Akrapovic SH6R11-AFT full system ( No Cat )

I have purchased a SmartMoto Pair Valve Blanking kit to removed the dreaded PV's, the kit is the latest type with the machined inner faces and the plug and play resistor block.

Before delving deep into the bike I thought I'd try the blocking off the pipe from the air box with a marble and see what the result was.
The marble is a good tight seal in the air feed pipe and I've fitted it far enough up the pipe to allow me to reattach the pipe back on the airbox and clamp it with the original clip.

The bike fired straight up fine but the noise from the pair valves or solenoid is twice as loud as it was before blocking said pipe !!!
I've removed the marble and reinstated the pipe as standard started the bike and the sound is now back to how it was before blocking the pipe.

Am I missing something here ? should I have disconnected the electrical connection the solenoid as well as blocking the pipe with the marble ?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

TIA.

Blocking with a marble does not stop the solenoid from operating, but just stops the air from passing through. Are you sure you blocked the right pipe as well?

You have the plates, do the job fully and you’ll be happy.

 

[Mr1275]

Blocking with a marble does not stop the solenoid from operating, but just stops the air from passing through. Are you sure you blocked the right pipe as well?

You have the plates, do the job fully and you’ll be happy.

Thanks for your reply, yes the correct pipe was sealed off, can you explain why the chattering sound got so much louder, and would disconnecting the electrical feed to the solenoid help ?

TIA.

 

[baugustine]

You basically added a baffle which is now amplifying the reed valve chatter. Disconnect the solenoid and you may need a resistor installed to trick the ECM into thinking you still are plugged in.

 

[Mr1275]

You basically added a baffle which is now amplifying the reed valve chatter. Disconnect the solenoid and you may need a resistor installed to trick the ECM into thinking you still are plugged in.

Hi baugustine, many thanks for your reply.

I've read through both the old and new improve version threads regarding this popular mod, maybe I misinterpreted what I read but I thought there were several posts saying simply plugging the pipe from the airbox to the solenoid would give the desired results, eg. quieter top end chatter and improved throttle response at low revs, the later being my goal.
Is this in fact not the case ?
As I have already said I do have a kit to block of the pair valves but given how deeply buried they are, but if I can arrive at the same result by plugging the the airbox pipe and disconnecting the electrical supply to the solenoid plus installing the kit resistor I'd prefer this to be my plan of action.
I'm just looking for a bit of reassurance.

Once again thanks for all of the input.

 

[baugustine]

Plugging the pipe blocks the air from entering the system. As @miweber929 noted above that just makes it mechanically inoperable. As long as the solenoid is connected the ECM will continue to pulse the valves. It appears your location choice for the marble amplified it.

I don’t recall anyone confirming quieter operation by just plugging the supply hose. It could happen. When I first did this mod I installed the plates and left the solenoids and hoses, just not connected to the intake ports. The solenoids were more annoying after that. I eventually removed the whole assembly and plugged the air box. Problem solved, permanently.

 

[mcphatty]

Ive been running mine with the marble for the better part of a year (lets just say that having a child actually does eat up all of your free time), and while I can confirm that throttle response was greatly improved, the noise certainly was not.

I also have the plates, and hopefully I can make some time to finish the job. For now though, the marble is doing what I need it to.

 

[miweber929]

Hi baugustine, many thanks for your reply.

I've read through both the old and new improve version threads regarding this popular mod, maybe I misinterpreted what I read but I thought there were several posts saying simply plugging the pipe from the airbox to the solenoid would give the desired results, eg. quieter top end chatter and improved throttle response at low revs, the later being my goal.
Is this in fact not the case ?
As I have already said I do have a kit to block of the pair valves but given how deeply buried they are, but if I can arrive at the same result by plugging the the airbox pipe and disconnecting the electrical supply to the solenoid plus installing the kit resistor I'd prefer this to be my plan of action.
I'm just looking for a bit of reassurance.

Once again thanks for all of the input.

As @baugustine said, you will still have the noise with everything still in place, you just won't have the running "symptoms".

 

[Mr1275]

Well after yesterdays results I decided to delve back under the tank today after mulling over the input you have all been kind enough to give me.

Not wanting to get involved in a gynaecological wrestling match trying to remove the PV plates I decided to adapt the existing plumbing to cap the two nipples that come out of the PV plates.
My solution was to remove the solenoid and all the rubber hosing just leaving the nipple standing proud from the PV plates.
I then removed the two elbow sections of the rubber pipework from the solenoid and cut a 70mm piece of 15mm copper tube and inserted this into the horizontal sections of the rubber elbows until i achieved 150mm centers on the vertical parts of the elbows to match the centers of the PV nipples.

Popped the newly configured pipework back into position on the nipples and clamped all the joints with the stock clamps.
I've fitted the resistor block that came with the original kit and using the tip from a couple of finger from a latex glove the protect the resistor from water ingress.
Refitted everything including the rubber bung to the airbox, tank etc..
Fired her up and bingo, no warning lights, no rattling, took her out for a 10 mile test ride and all seems well, a marked improvement in the low down throttle response, no jerkiness at all, which was my main aim.

Hope this helps anyone looking for a slightly simpler way of carrying out this mod without the hassle of fighting the PV covers in such a tight space.

Thanks to everyone who has offered their advice it was very much appreciated.

 

[shark650]

take care because resistor become to hot

 

[Mr1275]

take care because resistor become to hot

Hmm I did wonder if this might be a potential issue, would it be better to remove the protection, there's minimal chance of the bike ever being ridden in the wet tbh.
Thoughts anyone ?

 

[Brammers]

Use a correct resistor... 5w IIRC. I'd then cover the end in something designed to take heat (heatshrink for example) and then maybe tape over that.

I'm lucky that 2014 Ecu doesn't check so no resistor needed for me... Just a load of tape to keep out the wet.

J

 

[Motojack]

Has anyone measured the resistance on the plug supplied with the smart moto kit? https://smartmoto-electronics.com/c...o_brand_id=2&moto_model_id=222&moto_year=2021

 

[Mr1275]

Use a correct resistor... 5w IIRC. I'd then cover the end in something designed to take heat (heatshrink for example) and then maybe tape over that.

I'm lucky that 2014 Ecu doesn't check so no resistor needed for me... Just a load of tape to keep out the wet.

J

Hi Brammers,

The resistor I'm using is the one supplied in the kit from SmartMoto and the kit is the right one for my bike according to their website. https://smartmoto-electronics.com/complete-pair-ais-eliminator-kit-with-block-off-plates-ple-206-en
You can't see the colour banding on the resistor as its wrapped.
I've emailed SmartMoto to see if they can shed any light on the resistor used.
My concern is if it should overheat could it cause a fire ? or will it just destroy the resistor and illuminate the EML ?
Life is never straight forward lol.

 

[Brammers]

It's listed in either this thread or the original. I believe 27R is the resistance required. Calculations have been done that proved a 5w resistor is needed to be safe. Lesser ones might burn out.

If it burns out it'll throw a light. Unlikely to start a fire.

J

 

[Mr1275]

It's listed in either this thread or the original. I believe 27R is the resistance required. Calculations have been done that proved a 5w resistor is needed to be safe. Lesser ones might burn out.

If it burns out it'll throw a light. Unlikely to start a fire.

J

Thanks Brammers,

Are you thinking these are no longer up to the job ? if so would you happen to have a link to something a little more suitable please.

TIA.

 

[shark650]

Thanks Brammers,

Are you thinking these are no longer up to the job ? if so would you happen to have a link to something a little more suitable please.

TIA.
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Post in thread 'PAIR VALVE REMOVAL (improved version)'
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